Ajrakh Printing with Filemot

Filemot is a brand dedicated to bringing traditional crafts and techniques to everyday wear. Designed by Muskaan Chauhan - the Ajrakh shirt collection is cut in a unique way making the shirts genderless.

Let’s take an in-depth look into the processes behind Ajrakh - the artisanal fabric used in the collection.

Image : Filemot's Sopari Ajrakh Shirt - see the full collection here 

The Ajrakh fabric is printed in a workshop in Kutch, by master artisan Saad Yusuf Khatri. Before the block-printing is done, the fabric has to be prepared to retain the colour. This involves washing, boiling and mordanting the fabric. After these laborious processes are complete, the fabric is set out to dry in mild sun.

Image : The prepared fabric being dried in the sun

The fabric is then printed by the master artisan using a set of blocks. The set of blocks are carved from wood by experts with great precision. Each block has its own set role – and they all fit together to create the final design.

Image : Master Craftsman Saad Yusuf Khatri 

There are three types of wooden blocks called Gad, which is used for the background, Rekh, which is used for the outline and Datta, which is used for complimentary spaces. These three come together to make the Ajrakh prints. The prints are made with natural colours such as Indigo, Jaggery and Rust.

Image : The three types of blocks Gad, Datta and Rekh used for the Ajrakh print

This craft has been on a decline because modern, quicker methods are preferred to this slow and careful process of printing. Consequently, the natural muted colours are losing to the demand for brighter and cheaper chemical dyes. However, with the efforts of the master craftsmen and increasing awareness among urban people, this craft is slowly re-emerging as a valued piece of our culture.  

Image : The fabric being printed one step at a time by the master artisan

Filemot is a brand which is taking forward the ancient craft of Ajrakh through a collection which is relevant and ideal for today's urban customer. Wear a piece of ancient culture with Filemot's unique shirt collection!

See the entire collection here

 


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